The Kimberly trip…the last days

At last! After a few medical setbacks and other distractions I have finally got around to finishing the write up of our Kimberly adventure of 2013.

Alice Springs proved a health hazard for me. Our first night there ended up being our last night. It was burning off season in the Alice and the smoke in the air was affecting me. I was suffering enough for a trip to the Emergency department at Alice Springs Hospital where I was supplied with Ventolin and sent on my way. Not wanting to aggravate my condition we decided to continue our journey home. We had hoped to stay five nights so it was disappointing to be leaving so soon.

We packed up and left The Alice, once again heading south. I was disappointed not to see the Dessert Park, which is very popular and well known as a great place to visit.

After filling the car with diesel, we headed off about 10am. About 450 kilometers down the highway we stopped at Marla for the night. Marla is named after one of the aboriginal tribe’s word for kangaroo.

The next day we travelled to Woomera, a further 377 km south. It was from Woomera that Australia began testing rockets, (long range weapon establishment) and there is a great museum at Woomera that tells the story. We had been to the museum on a previous trip so didn’t go there this time. Many new roads were surveyed and graded by Len Beadell in the 1960’s for this industry (No longer operational). His books tell the story and “Too Long in the Bush” is just one. Do search the internet to read more about him.

There is quite an impressive hotel in Woomera to cater for tourists as well as the local workforce so we decided to have tea there.

As we head south the weather was notably colder and we both wished we had been able to stay longer in the north of the country.

Our next stop was at Port Augusta a short journey of just 180 kilometers. The caravan was set up early and I dialysed during the afternoon.

The next morning looked like it would rain but luckily it did not. We had booked a boat trip and did not want it to be spoilt by the weather. We boarded the boat and had an enjoyable morning cruising up to the Spencer Gulf as far as we could. Our captain told us about the discovery and settlement of Europeans to the area. Unfortunately there were no dolphins to be seen. We spent 3 nights in Port Augusta and had a look around the town before heading to Peterborough. Peterborough is only 82 kilometres from Port Augusta and it felt like we had hardly gone anywhere.

Peterborough developed as a railway junction in the late 1880’s. It was one of only 3 triple gauge junctions in Australia. With steam trains from Sydney, Broken Hill, Port Pirie, Adelaide, Alice Springs and Perth, it was a busy town. By the end of the 1980’s a number of lines had closed and railway activity declined. Yet the old roundhouse and original workshop has been turned into a railway museum. A wide range of rolling stock is open for viewing including various locomotives, passenger carriages (with 1^st class), freight cars, and a Baby Health car that was a child health centre servicing the remote areas along the track.

We purchased a ticket for the museum that included a guided tour during the day followed by a sound and light show in the evening. Sitting in the comfort of an old carriage in the centre of the roundhouse, we watched a show covering the history of the railways in Australia and the role played by the town. The light, sound and smoke effects coming from the roundhouse added to the atmosphere. Overall I feel it is a must see museum.

After Peterborough it was on to Mildura – a distance of 452 km. We only stayed there the one night for me to dialyse as we were getting closer to home, and there was no need for us to stay longer.

Although the drive home could be done in a day, we decided to a stopover on the outskirts of Bendigo where we set up the night in pouring rain – welcome back to Victoria. This left us with a leisurely 2 hour drive on the last day giving us the afternoon to unpack the van and start thinking about or next trip.

Katherine to Alice Springs

 Katherine to Alice Springs(The Alice)

      Heading south and homeward, stopping at Mataranka for coffee and scones. The coffee was terrible. We also had a stop at Daly Waters and the Highway Inn for fuel. Then travelling further south along the Stuart Highway we found a clearing at a telephone tower for bush camping. The site was also near an entrance to a Northern Territory Station. (A Station is the Australian word for Ranch)

A night outside a Station

 

This was especially evident when a four-wheel drive followed later by a large road train passed through the station gate. Sometime later the road train returned. I doubt the occupants of the vehicles knew we were there. Initially it was quite warm, but as the sun went down the wind increased and it became quite cool. The next day we arrived at Tennant Creek and we stocked up on groceries. I dialysed overnight.  As it was Sunday the Tennant Creek Dialysis Unit was closed so we were unable to visit them again.

I rang our friends in Alice Springs who had plenty of room for us and our caravan. I left a message to let them know we would be in Alice in 2 days’ time.

         A little south from Tenant Creek is the Devils Marbles – rocky formations where large boulders appear to balance on each other.

Caravan at Devils Marbles

Walking Tract Through the Marbles

The Devils Marbles are made from Granite, surrounded by Sandstone. The rounding of the granite blocks results from chemical and physical weathering. Resulting in thin layers

Devils Marbles

being formed and breaking off like an onion. Also the 24 hour cycle of a hot day (rock expands) and the cool night (rock contracts) overtime this thermal stress weathering causes the rock to crack and break off.

         Not all that far from Alice we stopped for the night at Aileron. This is a road house and I would not recommend staying there. The roadhouse runs on generators and the smell of diesel lingers in the air, as well as the noise goes all night, and no mobile reception. We did have a meal in the restaurant so no cooking and dishes to do was a small benefit.

       The next morning we arrived in Alice Springs just before 10am and drove out to our friends and set up the caravan. We had a quiet day just going for a walk, and exploring their property.  A lovely evening meal with our friends before heading to bed. Unfortunately there was a lot of smoke in the air so the next day we said goodbye to our friends and continued south to get away from the smoke. I suffer asthma and did not want to have an attack while there. Our plans to explore the Desert Park near Alice were put on hold for a future return visit.

Kununnurra to Katherine

We had a relaxing week in Kununurra as we planned our trip home. Inevitably we had to hitch up the caravan and head East. Our intention was to spend 2 days getting to Katherine with an overnight stop at Victoria River Station; we had pulled in at the roadhouse on our outward journey and the campground looked quite nice. However, we had not counted on the “event’ that was planned for that particular night. When we pulled in and asked about a site we were advised that 100+ bikies had booked in for the night and a band would be playing until midnight. We decided to push on towards Katherine and found a pleasant bush camp that we had to ourselves. Overnight the wild dogs were howling, and barking, but the surrounding hills made it impossible to know just where the dogs were, at least they were some distance away.

We arrived in Katherine finding the 2 hour time difference from Western Australia to the Northern Territory difficult to adapt to. We both enjoyed the time zone in the west.

To coincide with my dialysis we stayed at Katherine until Friday. This gave us extra time to look around, having arrived on a Monday.

On Tuesday we drove out to Edith Falls, about 30ks north of Katherine. It’s a good swimming spot and a great place for a picnic. Charlie went swimming but I didn’t have my bathers, so I sat in the shade of a tree and watched everyone else swimming and paddling.

               Edith Falls

On Wednesday Charlie dropped off the Mazda for a service and we had a relaxing day by the caravan with a couple of dips in the swimming pool.

Thursday, our last day in Katherine, we took a picnic and drove out to Katherine gorge. After setting out lunch on a picnic table and eating some bread, a Kite (a bird, found everywhere in the Territory) swooped and grabbed the bread out of my hand. My exclamation startled the bird and it dropped the bread.

                      Katherine Gorge

Charlie and I went for a walk along the gorge than we had a swim in a good water hole near the picnic area, before heading back to the caravan. It was time to pack up and think about heading further south.

While traveling I left these stickers in laundries for others to take and stick on their cars.

                              

Kununurra :Indigenous for Big Waters.

   We had 9 days in Kununurra. The weather was lovely and warm. Charlie organised the 2 new tyres and we then felt more confident to get out and about.

(and spending time just relaxing).

Even so, we spent most days catching up with shopping, cleaning in and out of the caravan, and Betty(Mazda), washing and overall just relaxing. We spoke to people who had been to El Questro, a very popular station, but decided not to go.

Kununurra from Hidden Valley National Park

We visited the local museum which had lots of information about the building of the Ord River Dam to create Lake Argyle. This dam flooded a lot of the Argyle Station, which originally belonged to the Duracks, and hence the lake is named after the station. The Durack’s were one of the first families to settle the area with cattle. With the large distances to be covered to drove the cattle to market (Perth) I have no idea how they made any money, although eventually cattle were able to be shipped out from Wyndham. “Kings in Grass Castles” is a book written about the Durack’s first settling the area, and makes interesting reading. The station house was moved to prevent it from flooding and is now open to the public, as a museum.

Lake Kununurra Sluice Gates,

Lake Kununurra, downstream from Lake Argle holds the Ord River water for the local town water supply and irrigation.

We also visited the Sandalwood plantation and factory. This is a valuable tree resource for its aromatic properties and smooth bark. The trees are grown in Kununurra and when harvested are transported to Perth for processing.

A short drive from Kununarra is Ivanhoe Crossing. This is one of the original cattle crossings over the Ord River connecting Kununurra and Wyndham. First opened in 1954, it was constructed using 750 disused 44 gallon drums (good recycling idea) and these drums are still there.

Ivanhoe Crossing

There are numerous tracks leading down to the riverbank we suppose are used by fishermen. To explore the area a little more we drove along one of the tracks and followed the river bank, and according to Betty’s (Mazda) navigation system we were driving in the river. We came to a dry and very rocky “river crossing”, the river course having been altered. Not wanting to risk another flat tyre we returned to the caravan.

All too soon the days had passed and reluctantly we decided to pack up and head off to Katherine.

Now the Repairs. (From Charlie)

Native bee on native flowers

We limped into Kununurra, late in the day – too late to chase up repairs.

Native flower

Ros dialysed overnight and after she came off the machine and we had breakfast I set off to the tyre service centre. I feared that both tyres were beyond repair as the first puncture was a tear in the centre of the tread, and the second had resulted in some distortion of the side wall. My fears were realised and both tyres were written off amid comments of “what a pity, both tyres still have a lot of tread on them.”

“Okay then- how long till replacements can be fitted?”

“I have stock arriving tomorrow (Friday).   Call back tomorrow at 1100am. I left the Mazda at the tyre service centre.

Friday after 11:00am – “Hi, How did you go with tyres for the Mazda?”

“I found I had one out the back and have fitted that for you but I won’t get a second one until Monday.”

“I see I’ll be around to pick up the one you have fitted.”

Not wanting to wander too far without a spare tyre we had a quiet weekend in Kununurra. I did however chase up an Anderson plug and repaired the power lead on the caravan.

The second tyre arrived early Monday; by lunch time it was on the car and we were again ready to venture beyond the town limits.

Somehow this tree grew out of the rock face and survives

Not the Gibb River Road, but Duncan Road

I’m glad things don’t come in fours.

Duncan Road, through Edward Range

We decided not to continue with plans to complete the Gibb River Road as we found it was busy with lots of other tourists and my limited walking ability across rocks would prevent me from walking along the many gorges that cross this road.

We left Fitzroy Crossing later than desired as I was slow getting myself ready and it took us 3 hours getting to Halls Creek where we filled up with diesel. It was now time to throw up dust and find how dust proof the Mazda and caravan were.  By this time it was nearly 2pm and we wanted to reach a good campsite about 150kms away. It was a hot day too about 35degrees.

A Dry FloodWay

We turned right towards Old Halls Creek which we had already visited. Duncan road proved interesting, passing through The Edward Range, with floodways, over crests, down into dips and across cattle grids and lots of corners. There was no water in any of the creeks and the floodways, which were concreted, were all dry. I was glad we hadn’t planned to stay at Palm Springs, a free camping spot, as there were quite a few people already there. This spot is probably only 40ks from Old Halls Creek not far enough along the road for us anyway.

More Duncan Road, Edward Range

On the Dusty Road

Once through the range the land flatted out and by now Savannah like which we had really seen enough. Just after the wet season apparently this road is lined by lots of wild flowers.

We knew by now we would not make our desired overnight stop so started looking for suitable tracks running off to the side of the road. A few false hopes and we finally noticed a small track leading off to the left, not far from a creek crossing which may have been Burton Creek. It was about 100km from Halls Creek and 400km from our destination, Kununurra. Although Duncan Road was mainly gravel with some corrugations, it was wide and we felt we had plenty of time the next day to reach Kununurra.

Legs Eleven, at Ca mp

The bush camp site was our first out of the way place with the caravan. It was about 100 metres off the road surrounded by trees and secluded. The birds woke us at dawn and we headed off early.

This road goes around the perimeter of the Bungle Bungles(Purnululu National Park), so it provided us with a view other than the Savannah. There were cattle along the side of the road at times and we slowed down as we passed them. Traffic was few and far between.

Perimeter of the Bungle Bungles

Charlie stopped to take a photo and noticed a lead hanging from the front of the caravan. It was the power lead which runs from the Mazda to the caravan to keep the batteries in the caravan charged. The plug end was destroyed.

It was 11.14am, our position was S17deg 31’ 28”, E128deg 48’ 16” and we were about 62km north of the Duncan Road and the Buntine Highway intersection when Charlie stopped, declaring “just being paranoid”  but unfortunately we had a flat tyre. This took about ½ hour to change.

Changing 1st Puncture

We travelled on at a conservative rate stopping for lunch for just under an hour.  With about 80km to go to reach the Victoria Highway, again Charlie stopped with the same explanation “just feeling paranoid” but his gut feeling proved correct and we had a second flat tyre. Both flats were after travelling over cattle grids. With no more spare tyres for the

Protruding Caravan Wheel

Mazda Charlie was forced to use the spare wheel off the caravan. This wheel fitted although it protruded from the mudguard because it had a different offset.

Slowly travelling on we hoped we would reach the Victoria Highway and bitumen without any more mishaps, especially another flat tyre. We kept our fingers crossed and what seemed an age reached the bitumen without any other mishaps.

Duncan Road leads into the Northern Territory, so we were pulled up at the quarantine station on our way back into WA. We had stocked up with fruit and vegetables at Fitzroy Crossing and feared we would lose it all. Fortunately we were able to produce our receipt when asked to do so by the quarantine officer and were allowed to keep going without handing over our food.

We finally limped into Kununurra at about 4.30pm and were the second last people to check into the caravan park. Despite anticipating a bad site we were allocated a good spot with shade for most of the day. We set up the van and did little else that day but contemplate the repairs that were ahead of us.

Derby and Fitzroy Crossing

View on arrival at Gorge

Gorge entrance

Our second stop at Derby included a day trip to see Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek.  Turning off the Northern Highway we traveled along the Gibb River Road for about 140km; about 100km being bitumen and the rest good dirt road.

We enjoyed both sights despite it being about 35 degrees. There were lots of fresh water crocodiles along the river bank at the gorge.

Freshwater Crocodiles

The Walls of the Gorge

Gorge

These sites are in the Napier Range that is an old reef bed, when 300million years ago it was all under the ocean,and than the ocean receded. Tunnel Creek is a natural tunnel through the range.  It is about 700 metres long and it is necessary to walk through water to reach the other side. The Tunnel has stalactites and other interesting formations within it. There are about 5 different breeds of bats that use this tunnel as well.

We were not alone visiting these sights. Tour buses, rental cars and other vehicles were in abundance.

At Fitzroy Crossing we stayed at the campground on the outskirts of town. It was a lovely quite spot, with good shade trees, but needs some maintenance, especially the footpaths and facilities.  It was a 10 minute walk to the pub’s restaurant, so we went there for tea.

As we anticipated the water would not be suitable for me to dialyse, so Charlie had pre planned for the high Carbon water. This proved correct, so I had two choices. Use the large carbon filter that had been sent to us in Port Pirie,(see previous blog) or do a short run with the water in the tanks that Charlie had installed into the tray of the Mazda. This tank water had already been through the RO (Reverse Osmosis) Charlie had filled these tanks in Derby, (180litres) and as such these had been extra weight for us to carry. So I decided to use the tank water and do a short run, that is 4 hours, and not the usual 8 hours overnight. The volume of water in the tanks is only enough for a 4 hour dialysis.

Broome

Broome is a vibrant town of about 16,000 people. During the dry season this number triples. All caravan parks are busy so it was good we had pre booked a site. We had a nice site that was in shade all day.

Derby to Broome is not that far so we were set up in Broome by lunch time. Broome was originally home to a pearling fleet; pearl shell being valued for buttons. Aborigines were forced to dive for the shells. Now Broome is a well know base for cultured pearls and there are several shops selling pearl jewellery. One of these shops had an old lugger (pearling boat) and some history of the industry; this was the only pearl shop we visited.

North of Broome is the Dampier Peninsular and Cape Leveque; not too far but needing a minimum of 2 days to have a look around. We got out the tent and, leaving the caravan behind, headed off.  The bitumen soon ran out and we found ourselves on a wide road that was deep reddish sand and some corrugations.  Charlie slipped the Mazda into 4wheel drive for better traction on the loose surface.

The Red Sand of the Kimberly

On our way to our camp spot at Middle Lagoon we stopped at Beagle Bay to view the Sacred Heart Church. This church is fairly special, as it is almost fully decorated with mother of pearl. (i.e. The alter, pulpit, windows and flooring). This church includes a bell tower and is kept in great condition. This is indigenous land and all are asked to respect these rights.

Pearl Shell Alter

We spent a night at Middle Lagoon – the only site we were able to book at short notice. The track in was a bit rough but not too difficult. The camp ground is close to the shore with some sites

Sacred Heart at Beagle Bay

overlooking the beach. However these sites were fully exposed to the sun and we were lucky enough to get a spot amongst the trees. After our night in a tent we went further north to Cape Leveque where there is a small “up market” resort.  After travelling over rough road to get there we laughed at the sign that read; “speed humps ahead” near this resort and, in fact, the road got better. We went on to One Arm Point, stopping at the administration office to pay our visitor fee where we were provided with a map of the spots to see. After seeing the sights we headed back to Broome. A good two days.

Charlie had booked us onto a trip to see The Horizontal Falls. These are created by the huge tidal movement flowing through gaps in the McLarty Ranges. The tide cannot enter or escape any other way. It was a 5.20am pick-up and then again another sea plane trip. The plane flew to Talbot Bay, via the Islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago and then the horizontal falls. We landed and there was a large pontoon ready for us. Someone spotted a large shark nearby and it really made my hair stand on end.

It was then time to load up into the fast jet boat for the ride through the first gap. It was fantastic! At the second gap the tide was running too fast so riding through was not attempted at this stage. Returning back to the pontoon we had breakfast and watched the shark feeding. No wonder the sharks were hanging about. Tawny sharks, not the white pointer sharks that I thought.

We then had breakfast and shortly afterwards were again put onto the jet boat. This time we got to go through the second gap, and a quick look about the area. Back through the two gaps and a ride around the area to see the red cliffs that line the shore. More feeding, only this time butterfly fish, and it was back to the pontoon. Reboarding the plane we flew over The Dampier Peninsula and Cable Beach, which was quite crowded, before landing.  Lots of photos were taken, but this time I did not flatten the battery.

The Tide Rushing Out

WHAT AN ABSOLUTELY WONDERFUL EXPERIENCE

A few relaxing days after this, which included a walk along Cable Beach, so named because there was a cable between Australia and the world (via Java)put in here. While on the beach where 4*4’s can drive, we witnessed a keen driver get stuck with the tide coming up. Help from another beach driver who pulled it out by the bull bar. Charlie was waiting for the bull bar to get pulled off the vehicle but it didn’t happen. The beach had lots of people and it was possible to rent umbrellas and lazy chairs, which were all lined up down the beach.

People Enjoying Cable Beach

Broome Dialysis Service

We called into the Broome Dialysis Unit which is run by The Kimberly Aboriginal Medical Service.

We were welcomed by the staff and were shown around by Max. The Kimberly has the highest incidence of renal disease in Australia and the main issue is the lack of dialysis facilities. Due to the high demand some Broome residents are forced to relocate to Perth to dialyse. Satellite units have been set up in Derby and Kununurra to help cope with the demand. (no photos, due to privacy issues)

After a week in Broome it was time to turn around and head back East.

Derby – but not Before Halls Creek.

 

We arrived in Halls Creek at lunch time as it wasn’t that far from Kununurra. The country side remains savannah like. Termite mounds abound, some small and some quite large. On first impression Halls Creek seems to be another “unloved” town although the information center is fairly new and in the streets behind the Great Northern Highway a number of new homes being built. Perhaps there is some “love” here.

The town of Halls Creek was moved when the highway was realigned away from the old town.

We went for a drive to old Halls Creek and did our first dirt road driving, although not 4 wheel driving. Only some of the old town still exists and effort is being made to preserve the remains of the old post office.

The following day, another short drive, we arrived at Derby, again about lunch time. While there we went to the pier which is a U shape and can be walked from one end to the other. A few cars were also driving around the pier. We visited the Prison Tree. This is a large Boab that is hollow in the middle and aboriginals had been captured as slaves for the pearling industry were jailed in this tree back in the 1800’s. Nearby is the large long drinking trough that was used to water cattle prior to them being loaded onto ships at the pier.

Two nights at Derby and it was onto the main town of the Kimberly, Broome.

 

 

 

 

 

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